Szeged to Cserkeszolo (Northern Great Plains)

Donat’s parents have got up early to go to the market for some breakfast foods. His mother has even brought home fresh flowers for the table. The spread is impressive with breads, salami, liverworst, tomatoes, sour cream, goats cheese, scrambled eggs, honey and the ever present capsicum. It’s a wonderful way to start the day…

Harkany to Baja

I wake late and don’t get onto the road until after 7am. This is relatively late for me because I know I have 100km to ride before I reach my next camp at Baja. Why so far? Well there’s really nowhere else to camp in this area. Sure, i could try a wild camp but…

Orfu to Harkany

A cycle trail leads me away from Orfu and up a long climb towards Pecs. There aren’t many climbs to be ridden in Hungary but when there are, the Hungarians like to make them slow and long. They tend to start at end of the furthest slope from the summit and just follow it steadily…

Fonyod to Orfu

I start my day by being locked inside the hotel. The gate and doors are all locked for security but it also prevents departure. It’s just after 6am and I had told the reception that I wanted to leave this early. They even packed me a take away breakfast, given that food was included in…

Balatonboglar to Keszthely

There’s something fun about boys’ days. I didn’t experience any of them growing up, on account of me being a transgender man who grew up as a girl. I didn’t start living as a man until I was 18 year old and then it took me more than a decade to feel at ease in…