Leaving Hoi an we wriggle our way west through dusty townships. Quiet mountain roads beckon but first we must battle roadworks and road users who scored highly on the “drive without looking” exam.
It’s all worth it. QL14 is an amazing mountain road with almost no traffic. It winds effortlessly upwards into and through jungle-clad mountains. The bikes handle the 10% gradients with ease, making for a pleasurable cruise. Natural lookouts provide epic views. The river provides some contrast below. We stop at a pineapple stand and shelter from the midday heat devouring three sweet fruits.
Tiny Prao is our home for the night. Locals drink coffee and beer in tiny roadside stalls. The only other foreigners we see are two groups of four people on Easy Rider motorbike tours. There’s a rainbow over town tonight but that’s about it. Prao is all about the ride.
Accommodation: Dung Thuy Hotel
Top tip: You don’t need a guide to enjoy this ride. Rent a scooter and check it out.