Cokertme to Kargicik Buku (Agean, Turkey)

My parents are reading so I decide to head ashore to explore Cokertme a little. It’s handy being moored to a jetty because there’s no need to swim or row. So I make the most of it.

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There’s some cute straw umbrellas outside one of the other restaurants. I guess you can use them if that’s where you are moored. Because each restaurant has its own beach chair set up happening.

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There’s also this gorgeous stone house that looks like it has been renovated and restored. The new windows are tucked back on the inside of the wall’s thickness, hiding this modern touch from the old exterior.

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And a rusty old anchor completes the maritime theme that naturally occurs here in this seaside hamlet.

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There’s a path at the end of the beach. I find it because I am looking for a geocache hidden in a rock wall. Without the geocache I probably wouldn’t have thought to come walking here. The path takes me past some old olive trees on my right and clear water on my left. Shale dots the trail where it passes near the old rock wall.

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At the end of the walk I come to this gorgeous bay. I rowed to this same bay the first time I was here in Cokertme but it was different then. I wasn’t yet used to Turkey and being on the water. But now I am and I am seeing things more. It’s always this way in a new place. The first few days everything is new and you miss the subtle. But then you start to find the paths and the nooks and the interesting places.

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We’ve been eating so well on the boat. Today’s for breakfast I make yoghurt with honey, mint, half an orange and some toasted museli. It’s absolutely delicious and I must remember to make it at home because we grow mint in a terrarium.

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We potter to a nearby bay. I work inside while my parents sail the boat. We arrive and anchor before swimming ashore to the stony beach.

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When the shore is pebbly like this the water seems even more clear and crisp. The wooden gulets anchored further up the beach make it feel like I am a long way from home. Tourists snorkel and swim along the rock wall at the far end of the beach.

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Again I go for a walk. My parents are sitting on the rocks enjoying the sunshine and view. But I need to stretch my legs. I am definitely a land person; though I am enjoying being on and near the sea. But I need to walk and get some exercise. So I do. The rocks here are pretty.

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At the end of the beach there is a marked trail. We have seen a group of people walking towards this point and can see a rock building at the top of a nearby knoll. So that’s where I go. I think we will become used to trail way marking like this next week when we walk some sections of the Lycian Way.

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There’s an old ruined building at the beginning of the climb to the knoll. I don’t know whether it’s ancient or just left over from busier days in recent centuries. Perhaps I will never know. But there are many of these rocky buildings in all sorts of state of disrepair that have long been overgrown by nature. Many have big ancient-looking wild olive trees nearby.

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The views from the walking trail are magnificent. That’s our yacht there in the distance – the white one farthest out to sea.

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Walking back to the beach I pass through a large olive grove. It’s such a pretty sight. Unfortunately, olives are one fruit that you cannot just pick and eat. So I cannot sample some of them as I walk (not that I advocate stealing of farmers’ produce).

I make the long swim back to the boat where Mum and Dad are waiting for me. We have some biscuits for morning tea and set off again. This time I manage to fall asleep in a shady spot in the cockpit. It wasn’t my intention but just happens. The boat is rolling gently, there’s nothing for me to do and the passing scenery lulls me into such relaxation that my eyes fall closed. Next thing I know I am being woken up to prepare to take the lines ashore.

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After securing the lines I row down the rocky beach towards a spot where I’ve seen some steps cut into the rocks. I figure there is probably a walking path there. And I am correct. I think it will just be short so I only wear my board shorts and boat shoes. Next thing I know, I’m out hiking for an hour.

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The sweet scent of pine fills the air. I am used to tall proud triangular pines but here they are windswept and rugged from growing in rock. They are definitely not as boring as our pine trees growing in plantations at home. Nor as grand as the Norfolk Pines that grow across the road from our house at Scarborough Beach. These pines have distinct character. Each an individual in its own right.

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There are lots of pretty lookouts along the way because the path crosses a few headlands that open views to the gulf and other bays.

The path follows a ridge that takes me above a resort where disco music is playing loudly. Tour boats are all moored in the bay and speed boats are taking people water skiing and tubing behind it. This must be where the Contiki and other similar youth tour operators come. Not my scene but the guests sound like they are having fun because I can hear them from the ridge.

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The trail also takes me past old rock ruins including walls and buildings. The afternoon sun has coloured them a golden brown. Piles of shale make the walking challenging around the ruins so there must have been much larger structures here at some point in the past. It’s interesting to see these rock walls that are held together as a puzzle of correctly sized pieces, rather than with concrete or mortar. I wonder how long they have been there.

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Finally the path leads me to a village. White blocky buildings are becoming more familiar to my eye. I am starting to like the way they look dotted between the green pines. It’s pretty.

I turn around and walk back to where I left the dingy, row back to the boat and relax for the night with my parents. The weather has turned again and the night sky is clear so I can once again sleep on deck after two nights indoors. It’s heavenly.

2 thoughts on “Cokertme to Kargicik Buku (Agean, Turkey)

    • Thanks. You have picked up the Australian ‘hey’ 🙂 Well done hey … haha.
      It’s very beautiful here in Turkey. Today is our last day on the boat. Tomorrow we are going for a drive to a lake.

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