Seven Islands to Sugot (Agean, Turkey)

I couldn’t sleep on deck last night because it rained and the cushions were wet. The cabin wasn’t nearly as nice to sleep in as the deck but it was warm and dry; always a good thing. Again I wake early before the dawn. I watch the world wake in monotone until the sun finally rises after 7am bringing colour to the bay. 

It’s so beautiful and calm here. The glassy water reflects the yachts, trees and clouds. I jump in for a quick swim with Mum. It’s a brilliant way to freshen up and start the day. Then we breakfast on healthy yoghurt, honey, nectarine and museli. I am enjoying the health eating that we are having. It’s such a contrast to the food in Indonesia, which I find quite heavy and complex. Perhaps it’s not my favourite cuisine after all. Maybe I do prefer a simpler diet of fresh foods with herbs instead of spices.

We decide to go sailing today. The wind picks up and we should get some good options under its power. We are optimistic as we leave the bay. But the wind, weather and sea have other ideas. No sooner are we out from behind the Seven Islands than the skies open, the wind start gusting and the white horses start running on top of the waves. We motor into the wind, waves and driving rain to seek shelter in a bay further east. At one point Mum and I need to tie down the dingy on the front of the boat and Dad reports we were up there in 35knot gusts. The average wind speed is still about 18 knots but the gusts are strong. It’s kind of fun. The boat and Dad can handle it so all Mum and I can do is enjoy the experience of crashing over waves and being hit by sea spray and stinging rain. 

Before long we reach the sheltered safety of Sogut. The village sits at the head of a gorgeous bowl-shaped bay with gently sloping rocky beaches for swimming, two restaurants and a yacht club. The restaurant jetties are busy so we opt to anchor at the other end of the bay. I row the shore lines to shore, tie them off then swim back to the boat. The water is warm despite the rain shower that just passed by (the storm has stopped now). 

After a short relaxation time we take the dingy to the jetty so we can explore the village facilities and buy lunch.

Lunch is delicious. We share haloumi salad, grilled octopus and muscles in garlic butter. 

Lunch devoured we set off on foot to explore the tiny village. The yacht club is fenced off but we walk in and look around. It’s not our scene (and we are gently escorted from the premises too). The villagers’ gardens are filled to bursting with food plants. There’s olives, oranges, pomegranate, figs, herbs, vegetables and many other things. I love this kind of gardening. We walk a loop and are faced with this bridge. Alone I wouldn’t have walked it. But Mum and Dad are adventurous types so across we go. 

The one striking thing I have noticed so far here in a Turkey are the dogs and cats. They are everywhere. The cats beg for food and pats. The dogs just lounge around unconcerned by the people traffic. They own the place and are confident in that ownership. 

We return to the boat and relax for a while. Mum and Dad read; I work. Around 6pm I feel the need to get out so I jump in the dingy and go for a row. I row right across the bay and back. It takes about 40 minutes return and feels so good. There’s an engine on the dingy but where’s the fun in that. Then it’s time to get changed and go back to shore because we’ve decided to eat at the other restaurant. It’s got a nice atmosphere but is set up for British guests. The menu is all meat and chips. We don’t realise until a flotilla group arrives and expect the koftes to be Turkish style not rissoles and the mixed grill to include some frilled egg plant and peppers but hey, we enjoy the night and watching the flotilla group interact with each other. By the time we return to the boat it’s dark and we all retire to our bunks to fall asleep listening to the rain falling on the sea. 


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