Mmmm. The great Aussie steak pie. It was exactly what the doctor ordered this morning for breakfast. Well, I’m not sure any doctor in their right mind would be happy with me eating a steak pie for breakfast. But hey, fantasy island is a lovely place to live sometimes. Anyway, I could have done crackers with cheese or two-minute noodles with tuna or even bought a bread roll. But the blokes outside the bakery seemed to be enjoying their meat pies so much I couldn’t resist.
I retraced my steps of a few weeks ago by cycling from Morgan towards Cadell. This was the road where I had such strong headwinds on my last tour. And would you believe it, the wind has turned and is now blowing strongly from the south-east so I had headwinds again. Not gale force winds like last time but still a stiff breeze that forced me to get my quads cranking.
As I’ve probably mentioned way too often, I love this open saltbush country. While it would be nice to have something to block the wind, being able to see for miles is awesome. I rode about 15km from town then stopped, took this obligatory jumping for joy photo then sat down between the saltbush to read my book.
Farther down the road the landscape changes. The soil turns red and mallee scrub springs up around me. I stop at a rest area. Stuart and Barb from Packenham in Victoria stop there too. They have been traveling Western Australia in their caravan for the past three months. They boil the kettle and invite me to join them for a cup of tea and some cake. They tell me about where they’ve been and ask me where I’m headed. I enjoy the yarn before we set off again on our separate adventures.
Not far from where I met Stuart and Barb is Lock 2. This is the second Lock from the Murray’s mouth. The water is flowing quickly over the weir and there are no boats waiting to use the lock. The lock has a fish ramp to allow fish to travel up and down the river. I don’t know how many fish make it successfully through the ramp though, what with all the pelicans and commerants waiting to eat them. The pelicans fly up close to the weir, dropping into the turbulent water before drifting downstream a short distance and then repeating the process. Some are braver than others; flying right up to the weir wall. A couple of pelicans are more like me – they look too scared to enter the turbulent water and instead bob outside the safety rope.
Lock 2 also signals another change in the landscape. I leave the mallee behind and enter the Riverlands fruit and wine region. Huge vineyards battle with massive citrus farms for prime real estate. The vines here are different to those in the Barossa, Clare and Fleurieu. They look wilder, taller and more gnarly. Perhaps it’s the variety or just a reflection on how harsh this river country is. The citrus is in the middle of being picked. Everywhere there are signs saying “No work” and many of the trees are just green blobs. But others are beautiful with their branches heaving with great orange globes. They grow it all here: oranges, mandarins and grapefruit.
And then I arrive at the river itself. A short ferry ride takes me into Waikerie. It’s a larger town than most with two supermarkets (Woolworths and Foodland), two bottle shops, a petrol station, a good number of houses spread around and a public library. The citrus and wine must be ensuring this town is still flourishing while so many of the river towns I passed on my earlier trip are dying. There’s a commercial caravan park but it doesn’t look attractive. The free (and legal) riverside camping, on the other hand, is wonderful. I pull up an cook toasted ham and cheese sandwiches for lunch in the afternoon sun before pitching my room with a view.
As the sun sets I feel content. Though I don’t enjoy the sounds of local yobs doing donuts in their cars. Fortunatley, by around 10:30pm the hoons seems to have left (they didn’t hang around – they’d just come down, do some donuts and leave). Tomorrow I will probably stay here. I have a university assignment that I need to start writing. Hopefully the sun is out though so I can charge my devices.
For today though, I’ll leave you with this image of me cycling along these quiet country roads enjoying life.